Where I live, we’re currently in the midst of winter. As I write this, snow is piled up in our driveway and it’s 30 degrees out. That’s why I’m in need of a little escape from the cold weather, by making myself some cute summer outfits!

I found this t-shirt at the local Goodwill store for a couple dollars; the cute, quirky star pattern was irresistible. It’s definitely not an old, ugly shirt; just not really my style. Also, it’s a little tight around my hips.

I couldn’t help but think that this shirt would be adorable as a crop top; which would also solve the tight-around-the-hips problem.

I thought a lace-up detail at the front would give this already quirky shirt even more character.

So, let’s jump into the tutorial!

What you need: 

*This list contains affiliate links for your DIYing convenience, so I receive a small commission if you buy something through my links. This really helps to support my site so I can keep creating DIY tutorials to help you create your dream wardrobe.

Instructions:

Crop the shirt:

First, you’ll want to try on the shirt and pin it up to the length you want; I used four pins total: one in the center front, center back, and the two side seams. Then take the shirt off and mark with your fabric marker where the pins are.

You can then take the pins out and unfold the shirt. Measure up from the bottom of the shirt to make sure your side seam marks are an equal distance from the hem (mine are 8 inches from the hem) and adjust one of the marks if necessary.

Using a ruler, draw a straight line across the back from side seam to side seam mark, going approximately through your center back mark. If it doesn’t line up exactly with the center back mark, don’t worry; it was just a guide.

Next, I used a curved ruler to draw a line from one side seam mark to the center front mark; then repeated on the other side. If you don’t have a curved ruler you can just eyeball your curve; or if you have a relatively flat chest, just drawing a straight line across will work just fine.

I then used a seam ripper to remove the pocket from the shirt; you could also do this carefully with scissors.

To make slits:

Mark on one side where you want your lace-up slit to be, then measure from the side seam and mark the other side the same distance from the side seam.

Next, line up your eyelets along the mark and draw another mark where you want the slit to end. My lines are 3.25 inches from the raw edge.

Using the leftover material from cutting the bottom off the shirt, cut two rectangles of fabric large enough to cover the entire area around the slit plus at least 1/2 inch beyond the eyelets on each side. My pieces are 2.5 inches by 4 inches. These pieces will be used as facings on the inside of each slit.

Next, on the wrong side of the fabric of each of the facing pieces, draw a line up the center matching the lines on the shirt.

Pin each facing piece to the shirt, making sure right sides are together and matching the slit markings.

Sew up each of the long sides of the line and across the top, about 1/8 inch from the marking. Repeat for the other slit.

Use your scissors to cut a straight line up the center of your stitching, being careful not to cut through any stitches.

Next, turn your facing to the inside of the shirt and iron flat, making sure none of the facing shows on the outside of the shirt. Pin the facing to the inside.

Sew along the slit; about 1/8 inch from the edge.

To insert eyelets:

Line up the eyelets around the slit and mark in the center of each eyelet.

To insert an eyelet, cut a very small hole in one of the marks.

Then insert the front of the eyelet into the hole; stretching the fabric to fit (if you cut your holes too large, the eyelets will not be inserted snugly; it’s better to start small and make the hole larger if needed).

Next, place the eyelet back over the back of the eyelet front. Place eyelet pliers over the eyelet and squeeze until you feel a “click.” Repeat to insert the rest of the eyelets. You can then trim the facing so that it doesn’t stick out way beyond the eyelets.

Next, to finish the hem I serged the raw edge (you can finish the raw edge with a serger, zigzag stitch, or just leave it raw because the knit fabric won’t fray). Then, turn up the hem and pin in place. Sew along the hem with a zigzag stitch or double needle, then iron for a crisp finish.

From here, you can thread ribbon or shoelaces through the eyelets if you like; or you can keep following along to make matching fabric strips to thread the eyelets.

To make the fabric strips:

First cut two long rectangular pieces from your leftover fabric (mine are 14.5 inches by 1.5 inches). Pin the strips in half lengthwise, with right sides together, then sew about 1/2 inch from the raw edge.

Trim the raw edge approximately 1/4 inch from the stitching to reduce bulk.

Next, attach a safety pin to the strip and push it down into the tube. Move the safety pin down through the tube to turn the tube right side out.

Press the strip flat with an iron, with the seam in the center (so that the seam will be hidden on the back of the strip). Repeat this process for the other strip.

Thread your strips through your eyelets in a pattern you like. Here are some photos of the method I used to thread mine:

I then sewed the ends of the strips down with a small line of stitching and trimmed the ends close to the stitching.

And you’re done!